THE ANTWERP FUSILIERS
Free rules for historical wargames & fantasy games
by members of Tin Soldiers of Antwerp.
Since rules might (always?...) need tinkering, check the rules pages from time to time to find
out if there have been any updates (text will change without warning, unless it would be a major issue).

You can download a review of the Afriboria rules here (Wargames Illustrated - October 2006 issue).

"AFRIBORIA"
FASTPLAY CARD DRIVEN COLONIAL WARGAME RULES
"COMMAND BY COLOUR" SERIES.
Flashman supplement
(allows MacDonald Fraser's infamous character to enter the game)
Victorian advanced technology supplement
(allows steamtanks and landships to enter the game or to include WW1 technology)

Games & battle reports for you to view:

THE (TSA) ANTWERP FUSILIERS YAHOO-GROUP
FOR CONTACTING THE AUTHORS & QUESTIONS ABOUT THE RULES.
THOUGH WE LOVE TO HELP YOU OUT, WE MIGHT NOT ALWAYS BE READILY
AT HAND TO ANSWER; THEREFORE PLEASE CHECK THE FAQ AT OUR YAHOO-GROUP FIRST.

VOOR VRAGEN OMTRENT DE SPELREGELS AAN DE AUTEURS.

Finished homemade game surface as described to the right.

This is what it looks like (in 28mm, but other scales would do just as well...). The surface of the table is covered with an imitation grass carpet (as sold in garden and carpet stores) on which a hexgrid (hexes are 15cm or 6" flat to flat) has been drawn using a cardboard master (one hex) and a green felttipped pen, finished with a light spray of greens & browns (spraycans). The best result is obtained by first drawing the hexes and then spraying the carpet with greens and browns as shown to the left. The hexes are thus faded (though still visible) and the game surface looks more realistic as opposed to the pictures above, showing the "bare" hexes. The whole job took about 3 hours and had to dry overnight. Cost around USD 30 for the carpet & the pen. Please note that, contrary to Battle Cry or Memoir '44, the flat sides of the hexes are facing the players' base lines in order to make proper forward movement possible. You could also use the ready made 10cm hex system as offered by Kallistra if you wish (see picture below).
TOP ROW: (Left picture - left bottom corner) a French A-class (6 figs) unit with NCO. (Centre picture) a "platoon": two German Seebattalion units (2x6 figs) with NCO. (Right picture - centre) French "company" of 4 marines units (4x6 figs) commanded by an officer on foot. (The mounted officer couldn't be the commander of this company since only the MG team is in his ZOC). Units are "colour-coded" by using little round stickers in red,blue & green (sold in department stores etc), folded around the base of one figure per unit in the appropriate colour (this figure is the last one to be removed as casualty in the game). These stickers do not damage your bases and are easily removed after the game. For a balanced game, it is best to have about the same number of units per colour in a force.

Comments by Chick Lewis, well-know colonial wargamer:
24th May 2005: At the Bengal club last weekend we played Rudi Geudens' "Afriboria Fast Play Colonial Rules", and had a good time with them.
The components are beautifully done with lots of color and colonial-theme illustrations. They consist of decks of command and event cards, and of stickers for the faces of your battle dice. Rudi has made the components and rules available online for free download, which pushes "value per dollar spent" to an extreme high.
Six players, completely unfamiliar with the rules, played an interesting game using 27 units on a 6 by 8 foot table to satisfactory completion in only 2.75 hours, including rules explanation ! As familiarity with the rules grows, and we get more familiar with the command cards, I'm confident that a similar game will be playable in 2 hours. This really amazes me.
Figures are individually based and movement is by hex-shaped zones, so no fiddly measurements or tape measures are needed, which speeds play quite a bit.
No record keeping of any kind is necessary, which is another plus. Everything works well using the number of figures remaining in a unit as the quantifier.
The cleverly-designed battle dice work very cleanly, are intuitive and easy to understand, and make for a deadly game, especially as range closes. The symbols on the battle dice represent the type of ammo/weapon used, whereby the more modern weapons have a better chance of scoring hits than outdated ones. This may be a paradigm-breaking system, and certainly is an effective one.
The heart of the rules are the command cards which limit a player's options and force many decisions as to which units to "activate" on a given turn. Should we use these activations to fire and inflict casualties, or should we use one to withdraw our depleted unit before it is wiped out? Can we hold for another turn on the left so that additional activations on the right can turn the flank? None of these decisions are easy ones.
The movement rules and battle results just feel right to me. The combat results also have a nice historical feel.
In our game two units of royal marines with a sergeant-major figure were packed into the same zone with plenty of open ground in front of them. These were rushed by five larger units of spear-armed warriors. Command cards were spent freely to activate the Royal Marines on a few consecutive turns, and these stood their ground and shot apart the attackers in a very historical fashion, suffering no casualties themselves. A hearty cheer went up as the remnants of the native units fell back into the concealing rocks and scrub.
Meanwhile on the other side of the table, the Royal Naval landing force was in trouble as a larger group of Zanzibari slavers whittled them down with one force, then hit them with another fresh group as the first pulled back. The volleys of the naval landing party grew more and more ragged as they dropped one by one. The Slavers won by completely destroying four of the British units before losing six of their own. But it was close and could easily have gone the other way.
Of the six folks playing, five were enthusiastic about the "Fast Play Colonial Rules", and seemed eager to play them again. The sixth is our guy who never likes any rule set no matter what.
Overall I like the rules, and will certainly be using them again. Next time I'll try playing a scenario twice back to back, switching only the commanding players, so that everyone gets to command each side once. This should balance play perfectly, and with the speed of these elegant rules, is possible in a single club evening !
Chick says "Download Rudi Geudens' Fast Play Colonial Rules and try ‘em !"

Chick Lewis

DESIGNER'S NOTES:
This is another set in my card driven wargame rules COMMAND BY COLOUR", and although still loosely inspired by the Battle Cry & Memoir '44 games by Richard Borg, the game no longer has a battlefield divided in 3 sections, because spreading a (smaller) imperial force across the battlefield would not always be realistic or playable, since in most colonial battles a smaller well armed imperial army faces hordes of natives. The left-centre-right wing Battle Cry/Memoir '44 principle has here been replaced by colour-coding the units red, green and blue (activated by cards of the same colour) thus enabling the imperialist player to concentrate his units anywhere on the battlefield if he wishes so.Also, compared to ACW or WWII, there was a much bigger difference in quality of weapons used by imperialists and natives. Therefore the symbols on the dice are no longer representing the targets but rather the type of ammo/weapon used, whereby the more modern weapons have a better chance of scoring hits than outdated ones (see rules).

Since many colonial games are played in "Darkest Africa", an (optional) set of "event cards" is added in order to spice up the "adventure" type games. When using the fast play variant, games with 20-30 native units (and about half of that number of imperial forces) can be concluded in 90-120 minutes (ideal for a clubnight). In order to have a balanced game, the number of victory points to be scored by imperialist armies should be around 1.5 times higher than for native forces.

When viewing the rules, please bear in mind that (after reading them thoroughly and playing a few games) the order sheet will normally suffice to play the game.

LEARNING TO PLAY THE GAME: Typically for this period, you would have a smaller (A & B class) imperial force facing a larger (mainly C, perhaps some B class) native force. For a tryout, I would suggest a ratio of 2 native units for every imperial unit; the same for officers/tribal overlords & NCO's/tribal chieftains. This enables the native player to create more "companies" & "platoons" than the imperial player, which he needs to bring his forces to bear against the superior firepower of the imperialists (certainly when those remain stationary & fire).

However, once B & C class troops get into close combat, they have an extra die-symbol (crossed sabers) to score a hit and since "double fire" of A class infantry does not count in close combat, the imperialists must try to kill as many figs in a native unit as possible from a distance (as in reality) in order to activate the "flags" (forced retreat) or to eliminate the native unit.

Victory points: taking into account the above, I would suggest 3 (natives) and 5 (imperialists) victory points as winning score for the first couple of games. It makes the game more interesting when one of the native victory points is to be gained by destroying the imperialists' (ammo) supply (e.g. a waggon; 1 point scored by taking the waggon and thus destroying it). This is certainly the case when the natives have some cavalry or camelry units to threaten with! This means that the natives only have to capture the waggon & eliminiate 2 imperial units to win the game... Thus the imperialist player cannot solely rely on his firepower and spread his units across the field through "wild charges" and go unpunished.
As in most card drive games, you start with a certain number of command cards in your possession. Normally, this number is mentioned in the scenario (and may differ for each side), but for a tryout I would suggest 4 cards for each player.

Multiplayer games: it is our experience that with multiple players on each side (and since the game is card driven), they tend to "team up" and automatically discuss the command cards at hand (and their tactics). One player can also assume command of all (or part) of the troops in one colour.

Remember: you're (probably) in the bush, so don't forget trees, elephant grass, hills & possibly a river in your terrain layout.

Rudi Geudens
rudi.geudens@edpnet.be

(left to right): standard command card, standard command card connected to an event-card (optional), special command card,
back of both standard & special command cards, event card & back of event cards. The cards in the pdf files are the right size
for the clear plastic sleeves as sold for (collectable) card games in most games stores.

The special Afriboria dice made with blank dice & the stickers from the downloads.
These can be replaced by normal dice if you wish so (
see rules).